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Trip Report: Rainbow Mountain (10,162) and Liberty Mountain (10,220), Lemhi Range, Idaho

• October 22, 2016

• Team: Solo

• Summits: 

• Rainbow Mountain (10,162)
• Liberty Mountain (10,220)

• Route: Northwest face on Rainbow 
• YDS: Class 3-4
• Route: East face on Silver Moon
• YDS: Class 3

• Total Elevation Gain: Approximately 4,000 feet

• Total Miles: Approximately 6 miles

I accessed Rainbow Mountain via Coal Kiln Road. Heading north past Lone Pine on Highway 28 Look for the historical marker indicating the turnoff to Coal Kiln Road. Turn left at the marker, follow the road past the kilns and go as far as your vehicle will safely travel. A trail leads to a basin at the base of the northeast face. 

I had not been out for several weeks and was looking for a challenge. Instead of heading south to the saddle and then following the ridge heading northwest, I decided to take a more challenging route up the face directly to the summit. The crux was finding a route through the tall cliff band guarding the face. Making the route even more difficult was a few inches of snow.

Five feet into the climb I took a rough tumble straight to the ground. Few holds, snow, and vibram boots conspired against me. I considered the longer route to the saddle for a moment and then sought out another route up the cliffs. Now I knew that I needed at least an inch or 2 of rock ledge without snow to get good boot purchase. 

Route through the cliffs

Midway up the cliffs

I was a bit loco to trade the class 2 saddle route for the class 3/4 climb through the cliffs. A few moments during the ascent had my adrenaline going pretty good. Although the few vertical sections were not much more than 10 feet high, a fall would land on a steep snow covered slab sliding into another 10 feet vertical fall, etc. The combination of snow and few holds had me puckering. I wondered about what kind of damage I would sustain in a fall and concluded that a few broken bones would be the least of my problems. I knew one thing. I would not be down climbing this section. I began to think about a possible glissade down the saddle in the south.

The cliffs from the top of the saddle. Yes, I took the longer route down to avoid those cliffs. 

Above the cliffs the steep face led right to the summit. Post holing was all I had to contend with to the top and the wind scoured ridge.

The summit of Rainbow Mountain

Looking down the ridge to 10,274 and 10,546. I believe peak 10,693 and Mount Inspiration are peaking from behind 10,546.

I hustled down the ridge and to the saddle in the south. A short glissade and lots of big steps in the knee deep snow put me at the bottom of the basin in less than 45 minutes. Raced back to the truck and drove to Gilmore to tackle the second mountain of the day.

I knew a 4WD road just north of Silver Moon Gulch led to within about a mile from the summit of 10,220. If I hurried, I could summit and be back to the truck by dark. The path to the east face of the mountain follows a well defined creek bed. The going was easy, not much brush. 

Soon the forest gave way to an open slope of rocks leading to the ridge of the mountain. I followed it straight to the top.

The ridge in the center distance

The upper part of the steep ridge was a bit difficult. Deep snow made slow going. I inched my way to the top and then carefully treaded solid ice to open rocks and then made for the summit.

Summit ridge of Silver Moon Mountain (10,220)

Tagged the summit and then raced down. Arrived at the truck around 7:00 in fading twilight. A near perfect day with two summits in the bag.

When researching a route up this mountain, I was intrigued by the name of the gulch to the east of the mountain. Silver Moon Gulch captured my imagination and I though it fitting to refer to the mountain by this beautiful name. 

10/26/2016 Addendum: While the name Silver Moon Mountain may be poetic, I learned that an historical precedent was in place. Rick Bauhger shared historical notes about a believed climb by plant biologists J.H. Christ and W.Ward on July 15, 1945. They christened the mountain "Liberty Mountain" after Liberty Gulch to the east. I think that the historical significance of the name bears significant weight and should be honored.

Rainbow Mountain route

Silver Moon route

Finally, a few images made of the Lemhis, terrible light but, good for reference:

Bell, Umpleby, and Knoll

The ridge from Medusa north to 10,693 has no prominent peaks, in fact, I am not sure 10,693 has the required 300 feet of prominence to "qualify" as a peak. Any input would be appreciated. I have read a Rick Baugher account where he refers to 10,693 as Mount Perspiration and List of John states the mountain has a rise of 393 feet. Approaching this mountain from the east from 10,546, I can only find only about 280+ feet. If this is the case then the first peak north of Medusa would be Mount Inspiration (10,715). Any feed back would be appreciated. Below is a photo of this ridge beginning with Medusa on the left. Unfortunately, Mount Inspiration is further north.

Medusa on the far left and the slope of 10,274 in right corner

Trip Report: The Clapper (10,740), Lemhi Range, Idaho

Bell Mountain on the left. The Clapper on the right

• September 17, 2016

• Team: Ben Prescott and myself

• Summit: 

• The Clapper

• Route: Southwest Ridge north of Deep Creek
• YDS: Class 2

• Total Elevation Gain: 3,786 feet

• Total Miles: 6.04 miles

Ben climbing the foothill north of Deep Creek

Looking for a simple hike/climb that puts you on top of a Lemhi peak with great views of Bell Mountain? A hike that gains an average of only 1,250 feet an hour/mile? No difficult terrain? Crosses three distinct zones: grass, timber, and alpine. An up and back time of around 4.5 hours at a leisurely pace? The Clapper is perfect. 

During the climb, I often thought this would be a great training destination for a runner. The terrain is simple enough to run without worrying about twisting an ankle and offers a six mile round trip with about 3,800 simple feet of gain. I also thought that this would be perfect for skinning up in the winter. Only the last 600 feet becomes bit more complex with talus, though the rock is very stable.

A 2 hour drive from Rexburg puts you at the trail head. Albeit that was the time on our return trip when I was cruising pretty good through the desert back to the highway; we were both thinking about pizza and pop in Mud Lake. 

To get there, head north on the Little Lost River Highway to Clyde. A large sign on the east side identifies Clyde. Just past the sign, cross the stream and then hang a right and drive across the Little Lost River. Turn left and drive on a relatively good road by Lemhi standards. I followed the road to Foss Mountain and then turned left at the oasis. I drove until I found a good route up a ridge just north of Deep Creek.

Hiking through sagebrush and grass, Ben and I made our way toward the timber line. The grade was gradual and easy. Once in the trees, the ridge continues northeast and levels out from time to time. There is a high point on the ridge (10,095) that we went around on the right. Looking again at the map, a left course may be a bit better. rounding this point, The Clapper came into view. 

10,095

overlook before skirting the slope leading to a broad saddle at the base of The Clapper

First view of The Clapper

Lemhi Crest south of The Clapper

Before the final 700 feet, on the saddle, the views of Bell Mountain were wonderful.

An easy push puts you on the summit. Ben and I spent sometime on the top taking in the views and making some images and then booked it down.

View of Bell Mountain from The Clapper

Ben on the summit

Lemhi Crest from left to right: Peak 10,681, Peak 10,751 (Midway Mountain), 10,737 (Little Brother), Big Sister

Southeast ridge of Bell Mountain and Umpleby

The Ridge of The Clapper

Trip Report: Gannett Peak (13,809), Wind River Range, Wyoming

Gannett Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming

• September 2-5, 2016

• Team: James Helfrich, James Allen, and myself

• Summit: 

• Gannett Peak

• Route: Via Titcomb Basin and Bonney Pass

• YDS: Class 3

• Total Elevation Gain: 11,238

• Total Miles: 44.32

I think it was about a year ago on an outing when the idea of climbing Gannett Peak took hold of the three of us. I didn't know much about the mountain. Just 3 things: It was higher than the Grand Teton, one had to hike around 21 miles into the middle of know where to get to it, and it had something called a burgschrund that you hoped would be passible.

A week before the trip, I obsessed over gear and the menu. Each night for 4 days I organized, weighed, and packed gear. Unpacked gear. Then repacked it again more efficiently. Fiddled with menu items to pack in the most carbs possible at an acceptable weight without ignoring the fact that I would actually have to eat the stuff...would I be able to stomach the taste despite the fact that I knew altitude and exertion would work in tandem to suppress appetite. 

I was also anxious about the trip in and the actual climb. We knew that winter was emerging in the Wind Rivers and that we would need to be prepared for cold temps and possible snowfall. Weather could have a major impact on the success of the trip.

Day 1

James H and I left Rexburg around 3:45 A.M. Friday morning. Drove to Idaho Falls and loaded our packs and bags into James A's Outback. On the road again, we headed to Pinedale, Wyoming. Stopped for a heavy breakfast and then made our way to Elkhart Park and the Pole Creek trail head. The parking lot was packed. Lots of people were venturing into the Winds that day. We met several groups with our same objective: Summit Gannett.

Hoisted heavy packs loaded with the necessary gear to mitigate the problems of unknown weather and terrain and began the long walk into the mountains. The first 5 miles or so meandered through forest and meadow. I was pleasantly surprised by the well defined trail. Not sure why I didn't expect this. I guess I underestimated the popularity of the area. Anyway, the trail was easy to follow to an overlook called Photographers Point. A grand view of mountains flowed out before us. This was my first introduction to the Wind Rivers.

Photographers Point

From here the trail dropped into a maze of mountains. it wound along stunning lakes. Over and around granite hills. Through meadows. Again, the trail was well defined and easy to follow. There were a few junctions that I thought could have been made more clear by forest service signage. At these crossroads we used GPS to mark our progress. The hiking was easy going. The amount of energy expended was well rewarded by majestic views. A visual feast.

Titcomb Basin ahead

We arrived in Titcomb Basin in the late afternoon and set up camp. Found some flat grassy areas to pitch our tents. The thick grass was soft and I felt we could not have found a more luxurious spot. I spent the rest of the day making photos of the area.

Once the light faded, we crawled into warm down bags with air mattresses on the soft grass. Life does not get much better. During the night, we were treated to thunder, lightening, and rain.

Day 2

In the morning the clouds hung low over the peaks. There were two other groups in the basin, but those who began the previous day with the intention of climbing Gannett never showed up. We surmised we were only crazy ones in the area. 

Morning camp

Clouds over Bonney Pass

Bonney Pass appears below the cloud level

Approaching Bonney Pass

Our immediate goal was Bonney Pass. This pass, or as James H declares, "divide," became a major hurdle in the overall journey. Rising only 2,300 plus feet above the basin floor it seemed as if we could knock it out in a few hours. However, as we approached the end of the basin we encountered more and more boulders. The pass itself is one big steep mess of boulders. Boulder hopping sometimes turned to boulder crawling. Forward progress was slowed considerably. 

Looking back down the Titcomb Basin while climbing Bonney Pass

As we crested the 12,800 plus col, we were greeted by some of the most memorable sights of the journey. The vast Dinwoody Glacier dominated the valley before us. It was if we had left the world behind and entered a space with a presence of grandeur that demands respect. Craggy peaks punctuated the skyline separating the drainages from which the the glacier flowed.

Approaching snowstorm

Cresting Bonney Pass
The Sphinx, Mount Woodrow, and Gannett Peak

Just couldn't resist putting in several more images of this stretch of mountains.

The vast scale of the features before us was astonishing. We descended into another world.

Descending into the Dinwooody

Approaching snowstorm
Gannett Peak looms top right

Once on the glacier, we were like kids in a candy store; We explored various streams cutting the surfaces, small crevasses, and strange surface features. Crouching down, we drank straight from the glacial streams revealing in the primal. The experience was so intriguing that we were in no hurry to leave the Dinwoody behind. This section the of the trip was a major highlight for all 3 of us.

The Dinwoody Galcier and Gannett Peak

Dinwoody Glacier

Dinwoody Glacier

Exploring the Dinwoody

Dinwoody Glacier

Exploring the Dinwoody 

Rushing Stream on the Dinwoody

Exploring the Dinwoody

The Dinwoody

The Dinwoody

Looking north

Looking north

The Dinwoody

The Dinwoody

The Dinwoody

Exploring the Dinwoody

Leaving the terminal moraine, we proceeded down the valley to the drainage that would lead us up the slopes of Gannett. Among the rocks and boulders of the moraine, we looked for a place to pitch tents. This was no easy task. I spotted two flat areas that some prior party must have worked to create. one had a small rock wall on the windward side for protection. Delighted with our find, James H and I reinforced the wall and built another on the second flat area. Nothing quite like doing heavy squats with large rocks after crossing Bonney Pass!

After setting up camp, I was free again for the evening to make images. We were very happy with our decision to spend 4 day on this adventure. For some the physical challenge of summiting a mountain like Gannett in 2 or 3 days is paramount. Not for me. I want to have time to look, think, and enjoy. During these few hours of "down time" I could relax in a chair James A packed in, lay on my bag, or most important, explore with a camera. 

Camp II on the moraine of the Dinwoody Glacier

Nothing like chair in the wilderness

I think this in Mount Koven

Glacial moraine and Mount Koven 

Looking east from camp II

Looking north

Looking east

Looking east

Looking north from camp II

Looking north from camp II

Looking east from camp II

A selfie for the day

The light faded into evening and we retreated to our tents to get some sleep before the big summit day.  During the night, gusting wind pelted our tents with graupel. Sleep was fleeting as we conjured thoughts as to what the morning would bring. 

Day 3

We awoke with patches of snow on the ground and dark foreboding clouds above. The wind continued to roar and pellet-like-snow stung our faces. Even more ominous was the deafening claps of thunder. Morale was ebbing with every explosion from the sky.

We retreated under a large rock to discuss our possibilities. I thought time was on our side. After all we still had 2 days ahead of us. We could afford to wait out the storm. However, the big questions were still beyond us; how long would the storm last? and What would the consequences be in terms of our 21 mile walkout? I was willing to gamble that we still had time and that the world on the other side of Bonney Pass was not getting hit as hard as we were. After all, it was at least 1,000 feet lower in elevation.

During this time the occurrences of thunder decreased the pelting graupel subsided. I suggested that we at least climb to the terminal moraine of the Gooseneck Glacier and see how the weather held. This would put us in good position to summit or retreat if the weather went south. The consensus of the vote set us out to make the Gooseneck.

Up the drainage to the Gooseneck

The weather was still good at the glacier and we proceeded up the increasing slope. We also decided to rope up for added security. When we encountered significant crevasses, we knew we made the right decision to bring a rope.

Crevasse on the Gooseneck Glacier

Gooseneck Glacier and the east face of Gannett

This was now just a steep snow slog upward and brought memories of Rainier to mind. This was all about to change when we encountered the Burgschrund. This glacial feature is found at the top of a glacier where it meets the ice and snow above. As the temperatures rise during warmer months, the glacier separates from the ice above and a significant crevasse can form, often creating an impassable obstacle for the mountaineer. Now we were at the Burgschrund on Gannett Peak. 

James H approached the gaping crevasse and found a bridge of solid ice spanning the open space. None of us wanted to walk across it and decided there would be no shame in straddling it and scooting across it on our rears. I took a photo of James approaching the Burgschrund and then put the camera away. At this point, I knew that no more images would be taken until all three of us would be secure on the mountain. Now was a critical time to concentrate on getting the team past this part of the mountain.

Waiting on the slope below the burgschrund

James H approaching the ice bridge

Once across the ice bridge, James attempted to ascend the steep slope above. His crampons struggled to bite into the icy surface. I had pretty good purchase, so I slid across the bridge and scrambled past James. My goal was to find a secure spot from which I could hip belay him. Hugging the rocks on the right I found an adequate spot to belay from.  This strategy worked well and a series of belays took us to the rocks above this hard ice wall. I think we all agreed this ice wall was the crux of the climb. To get an idea of the steepness of the ice slope I am inserting an image made from above looking across and down to this area above the Burgschrund.

James A finding a secure spot on the rocks while ascending the ice wall.

Once at the top it was easy class 3 climbing to reach the summit. There were just a few spots of considerable exposure along the north/south ridge, yet nothing beyond class 3.

looking north across the Gooseneck Glacier

Looking south from the summit ridge

Looking west over the summit ridge

On top of Gannett Peak

The summit was a bit anticlimactic because we were anxious to get off as soon as we arrived. Took the obligatory photos and skedaddled down. descending was bitter sweet. We were anxious to drop elevation, but we knew we had to go down that ice wall and meet the burgschrund one more time.

Descending towards the Gooseneck Pinnacle at the ice wall

The Gooseneck Pinnacle

Now, just to complicate matters, a blizzard of horizontal graupel hit us at the top of the wall. I have no more photos until we are well below the glacier. We just wanted to get off the mountain at this point. Wind, snow and hanging on the wall with the front points of crampons is not my cup of tea.

Here is one last photo taken from well below below the mountain.

Gannett Peak is shrouded in clouds
A lone pinnacle emerges

The weather was deteriorating quickly. Snow was accumulating. The option of quickly packing and hiking out right then was discussed.  The possibility of descending Bonney Pass in the dark with fresh wet snow covering the steep boulder mine field did not appeal to any of us. The most critical factor for me was the fact that I was mentally and physically spent and did not want to tackle Bonney pass and the 21 miles straight off Gannett. We decided to hike out in the morning. Spent a restless night listening to windblown snow hit the tent. Discussed the possibility of just leaving around 4:00 A.M. to insure daylight on the way down Bonney Pass. He suggested 5:00. I dozed off a few times. Saw James A's headlamp come on a few times during the night. His tent was a three season tarp tent and the changing wind direction kept him "shoveling" snow through the night. The snow was drifting higher on the vestibule door on my side of the tent. I think I dozed off again around 3:00 A.M.

Day 4

We woke up around 5:00 A.M and quickly broke camp. A good 4 to 5 inches of snow blanketed the ground, drifting higher in places. We traveled as quickly as possible over the boulder strewn moraine and up the Dinwoody Glacier. The streams were frozen and/or hidden under the blanket of snow. Avoiding the deeper drifted banks, we traveled across ice ridges and angled toward Bonney Pass. Making good time we ascended the slippery slopes. Golden sunlight illuminated the mountain we left behind.

Gannett on the far left from the lower slopes of Bonney Pass

The top of Bonney Pass looking into Titcomb Basin

Titcomb Basin from Bonney Pass

Uppper Titcomb Basin

Coming down the steep side of the pass was slow going and tedious. When we finally arrived at the upper lake of Titcomb, the boulder hopping gave way to a mostly recognizable trail. The farther we went, the snow was subsiding and the trail was more and more clear. We arrived at the spot where we stashed food on the first night and made a big lunch and let our bags and tents dry out a bit. Lounging on the sun-warmed large granite slabs felt good. 

Resting and gearing up for the trek out

The rest of the way was often a muddy slog on the trail. We paused just enough times to keep the pace brisk. About 13 hours after leaving our camp at the base of Gannett, we had about 3 miles to go. We were tired of the muck, and rock dodging and decided to kick the pace up to 3 miles an hour. By the time we reached the trail head, I was completely spent. A young couple in the parking lot asked us where we had come from. We we replied from Gannett, They promptly offered congratulatory beers. I was about a quarter-inch away from downing a six pack.

The ride to Pinedale seemed to take forever. Thought of real food danced in our heads. We found a Mexican restaurant and quickly ordered. The waitress brought chips, bean dip, and salsa. James H ordered an appetizer to share. I was famished and the only limiting factor to my food intake was two hands and one mouth. James A set across from us a laughed at our food frenzy.  About 15 minutes later, I began to feel whole again. After polishing off a super large chocolate milkshake, we got back in the car and headed for home. Content with our accomplishment and full bellies.