Ramblings: The Riddler

October 31, 2015
Team: James A. and James H.
Summit:

Big Boy Peak, 11,402'

Route: East Ridge
YDS: Class 3
Total Elevation Gain 5,833'
Total Miles: 12.58

Big Boy Peak, Lemhi Range

James and I left Rexburg early in the morning heading to Sage Junction. James A. would meet us at the junction. Next, we headed to the Pass Creek turn-off just south of Lone Pine on Highway 28. The road is marked by a small "Pass Creek" sign. If you miss it, just turn around at Lone Pine and retrace the highway. The Pass Creek Road is in very good shape and ends at a small campground. The Pass Creek Trail begins here and heads south giving access to the many canyons leading to the Lemhi Crest. The GPS tract below indicates in red the Pass Creek Road from the highway to the campground. The green and yellow mark the route we made.

Initially, we were going to climb Shoshone John and then traverse the ridge to Big Boy. That choice put us on the south side of the canyon between the two mountains. Due to our late start time and the fact that both James's had to be back in Rexburg and Idaho Falls to trick-or-treat with their kids at 6:30, we opted to drop down to the north and find a line up Big Boy.

Heading up the south side of the canyon

Considering our line up Big Boy

Initially, we thought that we would climb the southeast face shown in the above photo. We would ascend up the snow filled gully and through the notch in the cliff band and then traverse east through the snow to the ridge above. After dropping down to the valley floor, we thought better. There was just enough snow to make the rocks extremely slippery. We decided that we would avoid a precarious traverse across a steep slippery slope ending in cliffs. Instead, James A. proposed that we head due north to make the main east ridge. Once on the ridge we could follow it to the summit. This east ridge was Diamondesque and promised some fun climbing.

Upper east ridge of Big Boy

We climbed to the right of the rocks on the extreme right of this photo

James A. slogging above the tree line to make the east ridge

Once on the ridge, we had a wonderful view of the cloud covered Birch Creek Valley

From this ridge we had a great view of Shoshone John.

Shoshone John

The fun part of the climb was just beginning. The ridge was a steady ascent of class 3 climbing. There were plenty of ledges to traverse to find routes with plenty of good foot and hand holds. We were super glad to have taken this route. It provided the needed variety to make the climb interesting and just a bit challenging.

James A. traversing a ledge to find the next line

Another ledge and a short climb

Great fun

Looking down from my ledge. My boot is bottom center

On the east ridge of Big Boy. Diamond Peak in background

The Riddler from east ridge

The Riddler from the east ridge

The final push to the summit

On the summit of Big Boy Peak

Looking south. Black and White Peak (near center) and Little Diamond Peak (upper Left)

The ridge to Shoshone John

Shoshone John (left mid-ground), Nicholson Peak (right), Saddle Mountain (far left on horizon)

During an August climb of The Riddler, I had studied the north approaches to Big Boy and I knew we could drop off the summit into the canyon to the north. However, the slope was snowy and icy. After a slow careful descent and a couple of butt slides we came to a gully of snow that was deep enough to dig a good heel into. Amazing how much such a find becomes so welcomed. It was then an easy stair step to the bottom.

The day had gone quite well. The weather help up and the views were stunning. We remarked more than once how incredible it was to be in such a space.

Dropping off the northeast slope of Big Boy

Diamond Peak in the clouds

Once we reached the valley, we put it in high gear to make it home in time for trick-or-treating.

I am adopting a convention used by Splattski on his trip reports. I like how he provides some relevant facts at the beginning of each report. I followed his pattern in this report and think it will make my reports more organized and easier to peruse. If imitation is a sincere sign of flattery, I hope John won't mind this aping of his style and will take it as huge compliment.

Visit Idaho Climbing for more Trip Reports.

August 15, 2015

The Riddler on left

It was good to be going to the Lemhi Range once again. I tend to think of this range in a personal way and to be back in the Lemhis would be a little like being back home. Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately, this range is eclipsed by the proximity of the Tetons in the east and the Lost River, Pioneers, White Clouds, and Sawtooth Ranges in the west.

When people, from this side of the state, find out that I like to walk up mountains, their first question usually is, "Have you climbed the Grand?" Their are many implications to such a response, but in general I think such inquisitors are seeking to validate an individual as a climber as to whether or not one has summited the Grand Teton. I usually reply that I would like to climb the Grand if the opportunity arises and I feel I have developed the requisite skills to safely scale the mountain. However, I secretly harbor a personal response that I never vocalize: I am a bit proud to say that I have never been to the top of The Grand. My contrarian side rises with the constant barrage of, "Have you climbed the Grand." There are thousands of peaks offering a lifetime of adventure in Idaho alone! Many of them seldom climbed. Yes, I really do want to climb The Grand someday, but in the meantime I would just like someone to ask, "Have you climbed the Riddler?"

The vast, seldom trod spaces of the Lemhis offer solitude and a spirit of exploration that appeals to me. Exploring high mountain tops in the Lemhi Range is fulfilling precisely because they lack the pretension of other ranges. The Riddler just south of Diamond Peak is a classic Lemhi peak and promises what I like to call a Mini Adventure in one's own "backyard." The approach from the east is beautiful. The climb offers some challenges: the number of summits can be likely counted on two hands. It is a well rounded adventure. When such a trip is mixed with good company, all is right with the world for a few days.

I left Rexburg late Friday evening to meet Tom Lopez and John Platt at the small campsite/trailhead located at the end of Pass Creek Road. We had postponed the trip by one day because of weather. The decision turned out to be fortuitous. Driving out of Rexburg, the skies were dark and rain pelted the windshield. The weather band reported 60 mph winds at Sage Junction. I would pass through the junction within twenty minutes. I drove on into the storm, pretty sure it was on its way out of the area. Was able to make several images of the receding front on my way to the Pass Creek turnoff.

Saddle Mountain and Tyler Peak

Diamond Peak and The Beaverheads

My trusty white horse parked off Highway 28

The Beaverheads
Heart Mountain on the far right

Desert Sky

Big Southern Butte and the toe of the Lemhis on the right

To find the Pass Creek turnoff, turn northwest on highway 28 just west of Mudlake. As you approach Lone Pine, look for a sign indicating the Pass Creek turnoff. If you end up in Lone Pine, turn around and look carefully. It is not far from Lone Pine. The road is in excellent condition. I would not hesitate taking a car to the trailhead this time of year. In the spring, with runoff, there may be a few sections of the road where a car may not be the best idea.

Met Tom and John around 9:00 PM. Talked a bit and bedded down for the night. In the morning, had a light breakfast and began the hike around 6:00 AM.

Photo by John Platt
Soon after leaving the ATV trail
Big Boy in the distance

Navigating the approach was a bit tricky. Following the ATV trail we knew we needed to head up one of the side canyons leading to the mountain. It was tempting to turn up the first canyon. Turns out the second canyon was the ticket. We soon found ourselves in forested canyons that seemed to veer off in confusing directions. Looking at the map a few days before, I thought we might have some problems in such terrain and had planned a GPS route on my watch. The few times we consulted the planned line boosted our confidence we were headed in the right direction. It was nice to have the navigation aid.

Once above treeline, we encountered a series of talus slopes leading to the end of the canyon.

John on a talus ridge

The next slope

I just liked this composition

Tom cresting a ridge

John (lower left) making the next ridge

John seriously looking forward to the next slope of talus leading to the gate in the rock band

The Gate comes into view

Tom above The Gate

Into the fun part

The daunting maze of The Riddler

At the very end of the canyon, we studied our very spotty resources to determine a way through what was above. John and Tom identified a series of gullies that would hopefully lead to the crest and then the summit. The climbing was class 3, but the terrible quality of the rock in the gullies raised my level of concern above normal class 3 climbing. To mitigate the possibility of hazardous rock fall, we took turns going up gullies and signaled the lower climber to proceed once we were out of the line of fall for that particular chute. I think I held the dubious record for knocking the most rocks down the mountain.

Out of a gully looking for the next line

Photo by John Platt
Taking a break. I liked my rest breaks!

Photo by John Platt
Tom showing how its done

Photo by Tom Lopez
A great view of a typical gully climb!

Photo by John Platt
Almost to the main ridge
Ridge to Big Boy in the distance

Photo by John Platt
Tom and myself on the main ridge
Diamond Peak behind us!

John and Tom on the summit

Diamond Peak from the summit of The Riddler

Looking east
We came up the drainage on the south

Looking south
Bunting Canyon

Tom Lopez, myself, and John Platt

Looking down the drainage we ascended

Heading down

Photo by John Platt
I absolutely love seeing this animal
John remarked that there were a few more old goats on the mountain that day

Cool formations near the trailhead

Nearing the end of the trail

Sick formations

We took a short break at the campsite then packed up and drove to the old Hahn area to camp in anticipation for the next day. Made camp overlooking the valley. Enjoyed a hot meal, drank cold drinks, listened to great music, shot some holes in the breeze. Remarked more than once that life just doesn't get much better. Be sure to check out the trip reports of both John and Tom. See links below.