Climbing Little Diamond Peak. The Making of a Lemhi Traverse, April 17, 2015

Little Diamond Peak on Left and Peak 10,965 on right

Last year after climbing Nicholson Peak in the Lemhi Range, Ben and I stood on the Saddle to the south of the peak overlooking the breathtaking Bunting Canyon. Peak 10,965 (Joker) rose on the south with a connecting ridge to Little Diamond Peak 11,272. These two mountains guard the end of the box canyon. Beyond Little Diamond, the ridge seemed to seamlessly connect to the next tall peak to the north, Black and White Peak 10,970. From there the line continued to Shoshone John Peak 11,212, Big Boy Peak 11,402, The Riddler 11,598 and finally to the pride of the Lemhi's... Daimond Peak 12,197. Standing there last year, an idea of an epic Lemhi traverse was hatched.

To reinforce this idea even more is the fact that I look out of my classroom window every day at this line of mountains in the west.

View from my classroom

I mulled over different approaches. Last year, Ben and I approached Nicholson Peak from the Little Lost River Valley via Fowler Springs. I knew this was very doable and, this time, I would forgo climbing Nicholson to venture on to Peak 10,964 (Joker). I read somewhere that Rick Baugher had dropped the moniker Joker on the mountain when it played havoc with his skiing expectations. Not sure if this is really the case, but in my mind I envisioned a grand traverse from The Joker to The Riddler. This trek had a certain Batman symmetry to it.

Another approach was prompted by the desire to explore new ground. I could hike to the end of Bunting Canyon and then ascend somewhere to reach the summit of Little Diamond Peak and then traverse north along the ridge. I would lose my nod to Batman but would gain a big advantage. I would not have to retrace the ridge to get back to my starting point. The northward traverse would lead me back to the mouth of Bunting Canyon. I was pretty sure I could drop off the ridge somewhere near the end and be close to the point of hiking out of the canyon. That really clenched the plan.

On Friday, April 17th, I took the afternoon off and headed to the mountains. My goal was to bivy that night somewhere along the upper ridge. I think I began hiking around 2:30 P.M. The hike up Badger Creek and into Bunting Canyon was a pleasure. The deeper I went into the canyon, the more I veered east. My goal was to end up near or on Little Diamond Peak at the end of the day. As I approached the peak, I began a long scree slog up and over to Little Diamond. The slope and rocks worked together to make it an exhausting trek.

Traversing steep scree to get to Little Diamond Peak
The slope on the left leads to Black and White Peak

The saddle between Joker and Little Diamond Peak

Detail of rocks below Joker

Made it to the base of Little Diamond and made some photos in the evening light before ascending the mountain just east of the ridge, the line of snow leading to the top was ice. This time I had my crampons! However, the last twenty feet were very steep and the snow, for some reason, turned to powder. I would try to get a vertical hold only to end up swimming in deep sugar. eventually, I found a rock that I could leverage off of to make it to the upper ridge.

Ridge leading to the summit of Little Diamond Peak

Ridge detail

Ridge detail

During the trek, I encountered a wide variety of snow conditions. Much of the time it was just soft enough to get a good foot hold. At other times it was so hard that I could barely kick in with crampons.

I made it to the top of Little Diamond Peak at nightfall and looked for a place to bivy. Ended up about fifty feet from the summit on the ridge. I cut out a trough in the snow to place my bag. the last thing I wanted was to slide off the ridge while sleeping. As I cut through the snow, I pushed all the excavated snow towards the downhill slope trying to level out a sleeping platform.

Bivy at 11,200 feet
Nicholson Peak in background

Last photo of the evening
Venus above Nicholson Peak

Despite the 20 degree temperature and brisk wind, I was comfortably toasty. Went to sleep listening to my playlist. Awoke around 2:30 A.M. to a chill. My sleeping pad had gone flat! Without the layer of insulating air, I was in contact with the snow, and a compressed down bag offers very little insulation. Got up and put on all the layers I had packed. This cut the chill but was by no means comfortable. Couldn't get back to sleep so I listened to more music to help pass the time till morning. At daylight, I found a large rip in the pad. I decided right there that I would not be spending a second night on the ridge.

I was anxious to get going and warm, so I packed up and headed down the mountain. I decided I would eat a little to the east of the base of the mountain where the sun was warming the slope. Found a level spot against the radiant heat of some large rocks and ate an energy bar, a snickers, and half a can of salt and vinegar Pringles. I brewed some hot tea and melted snow to fill my water bottles.

Morning breakfast

The false summit of Black and White Peak

It was now up the ridge to Black and White Peak. Along the way, I garnered several lessons. I am new to climbing and learning as I go. The idea that those ridge lines that appear so straight and smooth at a distance are really jagged, convoluted puzzles was hammered into my head. The first ridge "encounter" I call "Close Shave." I have heard of knife edge ridges and have often remarked that I traveled across such ridges. The Close Shave gave me a new perspective. This ridge rose up before me and leaned out over the eastern steep slope of snow leading down to the tops of cliffs below. On my left, the smooth rock wall fell away down the mountain. The only way was to go over it.

Looking back at the Close Shave

I was satisfyingly relived to climb down the north side of this section and continue up towards Black and White Peak. This kind of path is intense. Walking ridges requires concentration with each step. While walking this ridge, nothing existed except the next step! Almost a meditative state.

Looking back down at Close Shave from an east/west section of ridge

A wider view of the above

Upper ridge of Black and White Peak
This east/west ridge turns north and climbs to the summit

The ridge across the canyon
Joker is in center

Once on top of Black and White Peak, I found it to be pretty tame. There is a large flat spot that would make a great place to bivy. Next, I turned towards Shoshone John. The initial path was laden with snow. I put on my crampons and traded poles for the axe before walking the line.

Ridgeline to Shoshone John

About this time, I started to look for a place to drop off the ridge and return to the canyon floor in the west. I knew another bivy was out. I knew that I did not want to down climb in the dark. I also knew from studying the ridge as I first entered the canyon, the day before, that the further north I went, a successful down climb would be all but impossible; the slopes became steeper and riddled with cliffs.

Once across the snow section, I surveyed the task ahead. The line to Shoshone John looked gnarly. Next, the line to Big Boy and The Riddler looked doable. However, The Riddler looked like a massive fortress of cliffs from this angle; it appeared totally outside of my skill set. I had a decision to make. The deciding factor was finding the perfect place to drop off to the west. I decided I would climb both Shoshone John and Big Boy another day, most likely from the Birch Creek Valley. I would be fresh and be able to walk over to The Riddler to scope it out. It is always a bit disappointing to fall short of a goal, but to err on the side of conservative judgment is never a bad idea in the mountains. Anyway, two big peaks and bivy at 11,200 feet is not too shabby.

The daunting line to Shoshone John and then to Big Boy
The Riddler is on the left while Diamond Peak is in the distance

Final image of the trek taken from Little Diamond Peak in the morning sun

For those interested in a GPS track of the trip, I provide the next two images. The first is the track in and the second is the track of the second day.

Starts at Badger Creek and ends on top of Little Diamond Peak

Starts at Little Diamond Peak and ends at Badger Creek 

To get there, drive north from Howe. I am not sure how many miles, but you will see the impressive mountains on your right and the entrance to Badger Creek Canyon in the distance. Turn off on Badger Creek Rd. This road is not marked, so look for the street signs and mailbox pictured here. Once you turn off to the right, hang another sharp right and drive about 6 miles to the trailhead.

Turn off to Badger Creek

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Reconnoitering Peaks 10,296, 10,561, and the North and East Face of Scott Peak, Beaverhead Range, Idaho

Friday, April 3-4, 2015

Upper Webber Lakes
Peak 10,561...Northeast of Scott Peak

Thursday, April 2nd was cold, windy, and grey. I considered venturing out the next morning with Ben to visit the north side of Scott Peak via Webber Creek. Given the bleak weather Thursday evening, I decided to sleep in and enjoy a leisurely day at home.

Awoke around 10:00 and looked outside. Friday morning was much improved. Made a quick decision to go. Ben and I threw our packs together and hit the road. We arrived at Webber Creek Campground around 2:00 P.M. and began hiking.

The hike is easy to moderate as you follow a trail along Webber Creek into the mountains. Several times during the hike, I thought it was a perfect place for a family outing to enjoy some backcountry. Heavily forested slopes give way to the grassy banks of the creek. Dogwoods and other thickets line the stream.

Beaver Dam, Webber Creek
Scott Peak in the Distance

Ben and I hiked for about five hours trying to get to the box canyon leading to the upper lakes before dusk. We stopped for dinner, chicken and rice, and took several snap shots of the mountains along the way. Thought these images may provide reference material for climbers wanting to scale Webber or Scott Peak from the east. The couloirs on the east face look doable for a late winter/early spring climb.

Scott Peak From Webber Creek

We encountered snow and ice along the trail several hours into the hike and eventually traveled across large patches of snow. When we lost the trail under the snow, we found bobcat tracks in the snow leading directly to the next section of trail. Over and over again the tracks led to the path. this little guy knew the trail well. We arrived at the second lake around 7:00 P.M. In some places the snow was still 3 to 4 feet deep in the upper canyon. We were fortunate to cross the surface without post holing. The distance hiked was about 6.2 miles and the elevation gain was around 2000 ft. I made some photos and then we set up the tent in an open grassy patch next to the second lake at about 9,100 feet.

Hike From Campground to Upper Lakes

You know you are approaching the entrance to the box canyon when Peak 10,296 comes into view. The trail skirts this mountain on the east and then turns west.

Peak 10,296, Beaverhead Range, Idaho

Northwest Face of Peak 10,296

Ben

Frozen Lake at the Base of Peak 10,561

The Ridge from Peak 10,561 to Scott Peak

Walking Across the Lake

Near the Second Lake
North Face Scott Peak

Ben

Campsite at Second Lake
The North Face of Scott Peak

The temperature dropped to the lower twenties during the night. Our gear was at its limit. We never got cold but were never toasty. We joked we were lukewarm most of the night.

In the morning we ate some yogurt and chocolate cake; Mom was far away. Later, we packed up and hiked to the end of the canyon before turning northeast and heading out. Once at the mouth of the canyon, we turned northwest and headed up a steep slope into another small box canyon just to see what was there. I was a glutton for punishment. About a half mile into the climb, I started to post hole past my knees. Post holing is never fun and with a forty pound pack (I carried a bunch of extra stuff considering this to be a good conditioning hike) it is pure agony. After about 10 steps it was a no brainer to turn around and head down.

Looking Towards the End of the Canyon
Scott Peak on Left

Leaving the Upper Lakes
Scott Peak on Left

How to Get There:
To get to the campground trail head, drive to Dubois on I-15 and turn west onto highway 22. Follow 22 looking for Medicine Lodge Rd. to the north. Turn right on Medicine Lodge Road and follow it northwest towards the Montana border. This drive offers beautiful views of seldom seen landscapes and is well worth the trip. Watch for Webber Creek Rd on the left. If you see Medicine Lodge Ranch with its massive log fences, you've gone too far. Turn around and retrace a half mile or so until you can turn east on Webber Creek Rd. Follow this road to the campground trail head. All access roads are very good. A passenger car will have no problem getting you to this adventure.

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Climbing Mount McCaleb, and Little Mac Trip Report, Lost River Range, Idaho

Drove to Mackay after work on Friday. The drive is about two hours from Rexburg. I hoped to photograph both McCaleb and Little Mac before nightfall. The light was not the best nor the worst.

Mount McCaleb is the distinctive Mountain towering over the small town of Mackay. It sports a gnarly looking crown which makes it one of the most recognizable summits in the Lost River Range.

Here are a some Friday evening images made of McCaleb and some nearby peaks.

Little Mac, 11,071, Mount McCaleb, 11,682, Little Mac, and USGS Peak, 11,982 

Invisible Mountain, 11,330 center

Mount McCaleb and Desert 

Peak 10,552 south of McCaleb

Peak 10,552 south of McCaleb

Lost River Mountain in Distance With False Summit

Last Light on McCaleb's Crown

I think the most direct route to the base of the Mount McCaleb is neither the upper or lower Cedar Creeks roads; I have been on both. The best way is to turn right on Main Street in Mackay. Proceed to the foothill. Instead of curving right, stop at the green gate. The sign on the gate identifies the road leading up to a communications tower but there is no indication of trespassing. As always, make sure the gate is closed behind you.

I parked on the flats near a small hill to make some photos and bed down for the night. If you have a good 4WD, you could knock off eight-tenths of a mile by actually driving to the tree line. See image above. Although, less than a mile hike up a moderate slope is not too bad of an approach!

The evening was very enjoyable. About an hour after the sun went down, I rolled out a pad and a bag in the back of the Forester and left the hatch open to the fresh air. Fell asleep listening to Ed Viesturs book, The Will to Climb and Coyote calls from Lower Cedar Creek.

Awoke a bit after 6:00. Ate a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, got dressed, and was on the trail by 7:00. The hike is pretty straight forward. I debated the line I should take once past the tree line and decided I would go up the ridge to Little Mac, hoping the light would be good on the northern mountains for some photos.

The Pioneers and Mackay Reservoir

Mackay Mountains and Ridge to Little Mac

Near the Top of Little Mac

The Northern Mountains
Lost River Mountain on right, Donaldson, Church, and (I believe) White Cap

This one includes the false summit of Lost River Mountain, far right

The wind picked up on the ridge and I welcomed the leeward side of large rock formations near the top of the mountain. See image above. There were sparse pockets of snow on the leeward side of the ridge but nothing that required any special consideration. Once at the summit, I ate the second half of my peanut butter sandwich drank some Gatorade and began the descent to the pass between Little Mac and McCaleb. The descent was a bit dicey without crampons. I know; I should have thrown them in my pack; I am a slow learner. The snow had not warmed up and was often so solid that I could not kick in a step, I did, however, bring my axe! I prudently traded my poles for the ax and slowly descended using the pick firmly planted in the surface.

USGS Peak Over the Saddle Between Little Mac and McCaleb

The Summit of Little Mac and Ridge Leading to the Col

Loose Snow/Point Release Avalanches off the ridge north of Little Mac.

Ridge Detail

Once on the pass, I enjoyed the views to the east. The snow was firm enough to walk on comfortably with very few post holes. I decide not to follow the ridge to the top. Instead, I opted for a direct route up the northern face of scree and snow.  I had to pull out my axe only one more time on a snow field. Not sure if I saved much time. Climbing up this face, the wind picked up I could see spin drift rising from ridges in the southeast. Slowly the clouds darkened and lowered, always an ominous sign. I was a bit disappointed thinking that by the time I reached the summit the views would be gone. I made the ridge and walked up to the top.

View From Upper Ridge of Mount McCaleb

View From Upper Ridge of Mount McCaleb

Once on top, I ate some cashews and peanut M&Ms. It was about 11:30, and I was in no hurry to descend. I laid down out of the wind and rested for about 10 minutes, hoping the weather would change.  Then, I reluctantly started down. About fifty feet off the ridge, it was like a switch was flipped. the clouds disappeared and the wind died! I quickly ran back to the top for some photos.

USGS Peak 

Summit Ridge to McCaleb

Lost River Mountain (center) False Summit and Ridge to Summit

I left the upper ridge a little after noon. I scree skied to the snow fields and then glissaded down. The snow had softened a bit and was perfect...not hard and icy. When the slope was too shallow to glissade, I was able to take big strides in the softening snow, no post holing, just large cushioned steps! Descending was a pleasure. I was back at my car by 1:45. I left for Arco and grabbed an Atomic Burger and chocolate milkshake at Pickles thinking I could afford the calories. Then headed for home.

Other Resources:

Tom Lopez Website:
Mount McCaleb
Little Mac

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