Climbing Albright and Static Peak, Teton Range, Wyoming

9/17/2015

Both Albright and Static Peaks are class 2 climbs in the Tetons. The hike features dramatic views of Buck Mountain, Prospector Mountain, Death Canyon, and the Death Canyon Shelf. Distant views of Fossil Mountain, Mount Bannon, Mount Jedediah Smith, and Battleship Mountain can be seen.

Looking Down From the Summit of Static Peak
Timberline Lake at the Base of Buck Mountain

I Drove over to the Death Canyon Trailhead near the White Grass Ranger Station in Grand Teton National Park Saturday evening. Was on the trail going to Death Canyon at about 7:30 the next morning. The trail is well trod and leads initially to Phelps Lake. You lose about 550 feet of elevation as you drop down to the lake and the canyon entrance. Not a big deal, but remember those 550 feet of climbing on the return trip!

The hike takes you into the steep dramatic granite walls of Death Canyon. I read the canyon gets its name from the fact that a member of the 1876 Hayden Expedition, sent to explore the area, went into the canyon and was never seen again. Can't confirm the fact, but it adds a little mystique to the location.

Much of the trail follows the creek cascading down the narrow canyon. Eventually, coming to the Forks, the trail heading to the Static Peak Divide and then to Alaska Basin veers off to the north. This section is easily identified by the location of an historic cabin. Soon the trail traverses up the northwest slopes of Albright Peak. The back and forth traversing certainly increases the distance traveled but makes the ascent an easy walk.

On the lower slopes of Albright, I ran into a moose family on the trail. The bull wanted nothing to do with me and took off as soon as I came into sight. However the cow and calf were curious enough to stick around. They both just stared at me. I yelled loudly and waved my arms to motivate them off the trail. They were content to just watch the show and eat. I certainly was not a threat and they stayed put. Finally, not wishing to get any closer and wanting to continue on, I decided to climb up and around them on the mountain side. It was only after I was well above them on the slope did they decide to mosey on down in the direction the bull had disappeared.

Cow and Calf on the Trail on the Western Slopes of Albright Peak

Coming out above the saddle on the north ridge of Albright, the trail begins a series of short switch backs up to Static Peak Divide. I bypassed Albright and continued on this trail to the divide.

Switch Backs up to Static Peak Divide
Buck Mountain Behind the Divide

Nearing the End of the Switch Backs, Static Peak Comes into View

Reaching the divide, one can continue over the ridge to the northwest to Alaska Basin or head northeast up the ridge to the summit of Static Peak. The climb to the peak from this point is an easy jaunt.

Buck Mountain From Static Peak 

Albright Peak From Static Peak

East Ridge of Buck Mountain

Prospector Mountain and Rimrock Lake

On the way down, I stopped at Static Peak Divide for a selfie

After descending the switch backs, I dropped to the saddle below the north ridge on Albright. and climbed the face just west of the northwest ridge. I was really lucky this day. The snow on the mountain was about four inches deep and solid enough to hold a step. This made the steep slope very manageable. Near the top, I initially climbed a light class 3 ridge to what I thought was the peak and found myself on the northern false summit. I descended a bit and walked around and up the southern peak.

Summit of Albright Peak
Phelps Lake Below

Static Peak From Albright Peak
Northern False Summit of Albright in Foreground

Fossil Mountain, Mount Bannon, Mount Jedediah Smith

Death Canyon Shelf in Background

The West Face of Buck Mountain and the Trail into Alaska Basin
Battleship Mountain is Just Left of Buck

Although the climbing is class 2, the distance traveled and the elevation gained make this a pretty good workout. The round trip is 15 miles with a total elevation gain of 7,412 feet.

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Climbing Buck Mountain, Grand Teton National Park

7/17/2015

North Face of Buck Mountain

Buck Mountain at 11,938 is the highest mountain south of Garnet Canyon in the Teton Range. The approach is a wonderful hike with all the classic elements of a Teton outing without many people. Ben and I saw only two guys on the trail once we left the Death Canyon trailhead.

Follow the Death Canyon trail for about a half mile. Right before crossing the third bridge, look for a trail veering off the right (north) of main trail. If you get to the bridge without seeing the cutoff, walk back about thirty feet and find it.

This trail will take you up Stewart Draw. Follow the well worn path up to a large alpine meadow peppered with an assortment of boulders from the slopes above. Buck Mountain lies above this meadow. Ben and I opted to follow the creek up the left side of the meadow to the ridge above. I crossed the creek and climbed along its edge. The blocky rocks provided steps up the steep slope. Ben stayed on the north side of the creek and seemed to struggle with traction on his way up. It's also possible to bypass the creek altogether and climb the more northern slopes above the meadow.

Ben and I followed this drainage out of the alpine meadow

Coming out above the creek, we turned north towards Buck Mountain. At this point Timberline Lake is minutes away. You can stay on the ridge to the east of the lake or drop down for a closer look at the lake. Either way you proceed north looking for a narrow couloir up the southeast section of the face. This couloir will lead you to a point above the cliffs at the base of the mountain.

Albright Peak comes into view in the south

Buck Mountain comes into view on the north

A small pond. Timberline lake is beyond the tree-lined ridge

Ben at Timberline Lake

The Tetons peek over the east ridge

The Tetons peek over the east ridge with Lupine. No pun intended

The couloir leading above the cliffs

The face of Buck Mountain. The couloir is located on the right. The lower slope of Static Peak is on the left

Climbing up to the couloir

Looking down the couloir

Coming out of the couloir you have two route choices. The most obvious and straightforward is to follow the east ridge to the summit. This is the most direct route and involves class 4 climbing. Once you commit to the ridge, it becomes more exposed on both sides the higher you climb making for some tremendous views. At one point the ridge line requires a walk across a narrow granite slab that slopes precariously towards a thousand feet of thin air. there are no good hand or foot holds for about ten feet. the slope of the rock adds to the sketchy nature of the short shuffle. Climbing shoes would add a layer of protection. Vibram soled boots didn't promote a lot of confidence on the smooth granite. I was half way across before I decided I did not want my 13-year-old son so exposed without protection. We turned around at this point and headed back down the east ridge.

The Tetons from the lower section of the east ridge.

Looking south. Static Peak and Timberline Lake

On the east ridge

East ridge

East Ridge

East Ridge Exposure

Finding a path off the ridge we dropped down to the face. From here it is a matter of route finding up the east face to get to the summit. Although not as direct as the ridge, good class 3 climbing can be found on the way without the exposure of the east ridge.

Dropping off the ridge onto the face

Climbing the face

Climbing the face. Static Peak in mid-ground

Ben shooting some video in the middle of a pitch

Nearing the summit

On the Top

Looking down the east ridge

Finding time to play while down climbing the face

This must have been quite the sight when this boulder careened down to land here

The round trip is about ten miles with a total ascent of about 5,879 feet.

Just as we were nearing the Death Canyon Trailhead, a deer walked out of the forest and decided to investigate us. I was talking on the phone as the deer walked right towards us. Ben excitedly grabbed a camera and took some photos. The deer stopped about fifteen feet in front of us, looked us over and began eating. It was a pretty amazing encounter.

Ben's Deer

GPS Track

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