Trip Report: Tyler Peak, 10,740 ft, Lemhi Range, Idaho

Tyler Peak, Lemhi Range, Idaho

• March 19, 2016
• Team: Myself
• Summit: 
• Tyler Peak
• Route: North Creek
• YDS: Class 3
• Total Elevation Gain: approximately 5,172 ft.
• Total Miles: approximately 12.25 miles

Ascent in magenta. Descent in green
Image was taken from the ridge between Goved Peak and Shrill Peak, October, 2015

Tyler Peak in relation to the southern Lemhi Range
Image taken at 11:00 P.M. June 4, 2014 from the Birch Creek side
Mars is visible in the south

I was on the road by 6:00 A.M. Saturday morning. Said hello to Steve at Ray's and bought a Pepsi for the road. The trip across the desert was punctuated by the collision with an owl hunting over the road. What are the odds of hitting an owl the last two trips to North Creek on the Little Lost River side of the Lemhis! Such beautiful birds, I felt terrible. That small superstitious part in my head hoped it wasn't an omen. Going into the mountains alone always heightens my level of concern and this was not a good way to begin. My rational part quickly dismissed the irrational notion, and I continued on to the trail head at the mouth of North Creek. Driving in, I passed 4 elk.

North Creek is located several miles north of Howe. I always look for the ridge the extends west from the north south running crest of the Lemhis down to the highway. Once past this landmark, a fenced grave site is on the east side of the road. Passing the grave, start looking for a green street sign marking North Creek. The sign is reflective so it reflects brightly in high beam headlights. Turn east and travel on a county maintained road 6 miles to Dave's house. Park on the right side of the road near Dave's large storage shed. There is a place to pull off the road here and park. You may be met by Dave,s large red and white Australian Shepard named Clyde. Don't panic. Clyde is one of the best dogs around and is glad to have your attention. Every time Clyde greets me, it makes my day.

I was on the trail heading into the canyon at 7:30. The temperature was 16 degrees. The forecast called for a sunny day with temperatures getting barely above freezing. Just what I was looking for after last week's attempt of Mount Church. 

An ATV trail leads deep into the canyon. Once past the foot of Gloved Peak (10,604), I headed northeast up the drainage. I was looking for a gully which would lead up to the west face of Tyler. Unfortunately, the forest made finding the right turnoff impossible for me. It's just plain hard to navigate by sight in a thick forest. I was winging this trip without the help of GPS points. I continued up the main well-defined drainage. The snow was fairly good for snowshoes. I remained on top most of the way up this gully. When I did break through, it was often no more than calf deep. I got a good look at Daisy Black to the north. This vantage clearly showed our December folly of finding a way from Daisy Black to Tyler along the ridge. The point where Jeremy scouted the route to the edge of the massive cliff is visible in profile on the left in the photo below.

Daisy Black from North Creek

I went much farther than anticipated. The morning was early and I was in no hurry. Passed Peak 10,172 on my left and turned southeast continuing up the main drainage. The sun was breaking the ridge ahead directly in front of me. I had no idea where I was and decided to make the ridge to get a look at my location in relation to Tyler. This section was slow and arduous. Often I was breaking through snow above my knees, not a happy camper.

Thigh deep snow even with snowshoes

Looking back at the drainage I came up

Walking up the gully, I passed several old avalanche tracts that came down perpendicular to the drainage. Soon I entered  the run-out of a large slide that came down the main drainage. hiking up the debris field, I came to a crown of about 2 feet. By now the snow had formed a cohesive pack and the danger of avalanche was very slim. I felt confident in the continued ascent. Come spring, the slides will begin again.

A slide off to my right

Looking back on the large slide debris in the main gully

Once on the ridge, I was completely surprised to find that I had overshot Tyler Peak. I was on the ridge between 10,172 and Tyler. Now that I had my bearings, I began the march along Tyler's north ridge to the summit. Coming up at this location afforded incredible views of the peak. It was worth any extra effort expended to have this view.

Tyler Peak on left

Trading snowshoes for crampons and poles for an axe, I walked toward the peak. At each bend I was rewarded with more spectacular views of my destination. The route appeared to be quite gnarly as I neared the summit block of layered rock bands. The small dollop of peaked snow on the top added a confectioner's like swirl to the crown.

Walking the ridge

Another bend 

Looking back

At about this point on the ridge, I noticed a group of 6 ewes gingerly making their way down the ridge toward me. I remained motionless to see just how close they would come before they noticed me. Watching them move effortlessly down rock and snow was another treat. I snapped several photos to record their approach.

They finally noticed me and came to a halt. They stared, considering me intently. I thought it was hard for them to imagine finding a strange creature completely out of context on a high snow-covered mountain ridge. Finally, I decided that the staring contest had come to an end and moved toward them. That was all they needed to turn around and high tail it back up the ridge.

Mountain sheep staring contest

Six ewes fleeing the scene

I have decided that one of the reasons I venture out into the mountains is for the views that can be had no where else. Simply amazing.

The back side of the large rock fins that dominate the slope
Tyler Peak on left
Daisy Black on right

Loved this slash of rock

Daisy Black (10,401)

Finally made it to the cliffs at the base of the summit block. It looked like it was possible to climb up and through the rocks. It was definitely approaching class 4 climbing on rock, snow, and ice. I kicked in a few steps and then decided to avoid such a climb. I was not sure, even if I could make the initial pitch, I would find a passage through the top of the rock bands. Also, being alone, I was concerned about keeping myself in one piece for a long descent. I decided to drop off the ridge and skirt the rocks at the base. This was the sketchiest part of the climb. I carefully made my way down the steep snow covered slope. A few times the snow was almost waist deep and I was worried about triggering a slide. The run out was over cliffs! I kept my axe in a constant self belay and proceeded carefully. Was much relieved to leave the deep snow and round the bottom of the rock band. I snapped a photo of my descent line. for some reason it seemed a lot steeper than this image makes it out to be. I guess you just had to be there.

Rounding the base of the rock bands

The next section of the climb was up an incredibly steep scree face with patches of snow and ice. It was so steep that to attack it directly required me to use both hands and feet. I ended up slowly traversing back and forth to reach the summit. It was cool to find a single trail of goat tracks (I think) curved over the summit.

The summit of Tyler Peak
Mount Hoopes 
Saddle Mountain

Daisy Black from Tyler Peak

Rather than retrace my long route back, I decided to drop down the drainage I had originally planned to ascend. This would knock some miles off the return hike. I traversed down toward the dip in the ridge leading to Daisy Black and then headed directly down. When I reached the point where all rocks were buried under sufficient snow, I enjoyed a short glissade.

The point I traversed to on the down climb

Then it was a matter of big steps in soft snow. I knocked off 1,700 ft in an hour. I found myself at the debris tow of a large avalanche field. Rested and again traded my crampons and axe for snowshoes and poles. Then began the long slog over an open section and into the forest. Once I entered the trees, I picked the best looking gully and, once again, slogged on in thigh deep snow down the narrow drainage.

Looking down the drainage I descended
Notice the large rock fins in profile

Looking back from the open section
My tracks can be seen leaving the debris toe of the avalanche

The next part down the narrow gully in deep snow was simply exhausting. I was overjoyed to finally intersect with my trail from the morning ascent. Ah, broken trail! This route had whacked off hours off the morning tangent. In two hours I had managed to converge with my path. I think it was just another hour before I was out in the open of upper North Creek and on the ATV trail. At this point I turned around to see what I could see. Tyler's summit and the drainage I descended were framed with trees. Now if I had made that elusive drainage in the morning, I would have cut my time considerably! Yet, the views of Tyler from the north ridge, the sheep, and my sketchy traverse would have never made it into the story.

Once back at the car, Dave drove over to see how I was doing. We chatted a bit. He said he has been battling high blood pressure for over a year. He didn't plant last spring because of it. Said he thinks he is doing a bit better and hopes to plant this spring. I wished him well and told him I would bring him a print I made of of his little ranch the next time I was in the area. I think he will get a kick out of it. I said hello to Clyde and then made my good-byes before heading back to the Little Lost River Highway and home.

GPS Track

INDEX OF PEAKS

Trip Report: Daisy Black, 10,401, Lemhi Range, Idaho. Including Data on the Ridge to Tyler Peak.

Daisy Black, Lemhi Range, Idaho

• February 15, 2016
• Team: James Helfrich, James Allen, Jeremy Smith
• Summit: 
• Daisy Black, 10,401, Lemhi Range
• Beta on Tyler Peak
• Route: Ridge South of North Creek
• YDS: Class 2-3, route dependent
• Total Elevation Gain: approximately 4,000 ft.
• Total Miles: approximately 7 miles

The fog was thick as we drove north of the Little Lost River Highway. Rodents and rabbits were thick on the road. Encouraged by the early February thaw, they darted wildly across the highway. We scanned the right for signs of the turnoff to North Creek. I knew it was marked with a green reflective street sign. Yet, despite the marker, we missed it in the fog. After several minutes of driving, we turned around and drove back south. Earlier, we almost hit an owl swooping over the road looking for a easy meal. Suddenly another creature appeared in the low beam headlights on the road. A Barn Owl suddenly became victim to our early morning travels. We stopped and admired the beautiful bird before continuing on.

We parked short of Dave's house and readied for the hike/climb. The early dawn sky was breaking and looked promising. The plan was to make the rib extending west from the Lemhi Crest just south of North Creek. Once on the ridge it was then a simple matter of following it to the summit of Daisy Black. Our objective was to continue on to Tyler Peak and then return via the same route. 

Hiking up the foothills. James Helfrich in red and me in green. Photo by Jeremy Smith

Surprisingly, the snow was all but gone from the foothills. Making good work of the first few ridges, we soon found the snow and donned shoes to aid our progress. A two inch crust gave way to fifteen inches of sugar. Our forward progress was slowed considerably. This is where having four people was a tremendous advantage. The leader would break until exhausted and then fall to the back of the line to recover. I imagined one or two individuals making the climb and thought how lucky we were to have four. Something to remember when planning winter hikes and climbs.

Myself and Jeremy Smith slogging through sugary snow. Photo by James Helfrich

The most exhausting parts were steep slopes of sugar that slid frictionless through the spikes on the bottom of our snowshoes. Throw snow into the mix of any simple class 2 climb and you have a challenge. 

At one break, we all unpacked fish, that is all except Jeremy. I think he may have felt a little left out of the fish fest. I was inspired by the two James' choice of culinary concoctions on the Big Boy climb.  For the present adventure, I brought canned salmon and fire roasted tomato and olive oil Triscuits. 

We decided to hug the south side of the ridge thinking this line would lead us to the summit of Daisy Black. This route eventually cliffed out. James Allen lead three short pitches of class 3 climbs to make the main ridge and eventually the summit. These short climbs added some needed variety to the preceding long snow slog.

The small cornice in the foreground marks the end of our first route. Climbing the walls on the left led to the summit ridge. Mount Hoopes is in the center, while Great Western in on the far right.

Once on top of the main ridge, we experienced the full force of gale winds. The forecast 40 mph winds in the valley were more like 50 plus mph at 10,000 feet. They were strong enough to blow one off their feet if not compensated for. When the icy spindrift was added to the equation, you knew you were alive when they both hit.

Spindrift blowing from the false summit of Daisy Black. Mount Hoopes in the background

Me taking photos below the summit of Daisy Black. Photo by Jeremy Smith

Spindrift on the ridge to Daisy Black

The crew before the summit

James Allen in blasting spindrift. Photo by James Helfrich

James Allen and Jeremy Smith making the summit of Daisy Black

Once on the main ridge, it was a simple walk to the summit. It was then on to Tyler Peak. The ridge pointed, like the bow of a ship, towards the summit of Tyler. Passage looked to be impossible. Jeremy then down climbed a bit and walked out onto the ridge to check the route.

Jeremy Smith on the ridge between Daisy Black and Tyler Peak

Both James watch intently Jeremy's progress

Next, he scampered back and down on the north side to check out another line. From our vantage point, we concluded that, even if we could get to it, any traverse of the southern slope would be out of the question due to the high probability of a wind slab avalanche.

Wind slab avalanche danger on the southern slope and a perpendicular cliff running down into North Creek on the north side.

While waiting for Jeremy to return, conversation turned to whether a push to Tyler would be prudent. I for one, was feeling the effects of all those vertical steps in sugary snow. Meanwhile, Jeremy had dropped down the northwest slope to check out another line. Finding what he was looking for, he signaled for us to follow. James gave him a big X with his arms and motioned for him to return. Jeremy's body language was one of disappointment. He was totally pumped to summit Tyler and had both the strength and energy to do so. 

Upon his return, he communicated the fact that the ridge dropped a hundred feet or more from the terminal point. He also pointed out a cliff band that ran perpendicular to a traverse across the northwest slope. The band, highlighted in green above, descended into the valley below. He suggested that we could bypass this obstacle if we descended far enough. Wow. There was no simple way from Daisy Black to Tyler. I knew I was not prepared to descend that far, ascend Tyler, descend again, and then make the ridge again on Daisy Black to make our descent. I immediately began searching for another way without major ups and downs. I suggested we could summit Tyler and then drop down the northwest slope to the valley below. I knew it was then a straight shot down North Creek to the car. James voiced concern about the chance of encountering deep slushy snow all the way down North Creek. It was supposed to reach 40 degrees and that was a real possibility. Of more concern was the fact that that a cliff band ran parallel to the ridge to Tyler just above the valley floor. If we were to descend that far and not find a way through the cliffs, we would be in really deep kimchi. The die was almost cast. We decided to content ourselves with a summit of Daisy Black and save Tyler Peak for the spring.

Jeremy shot a short video of the conditions as we descended off Daisy Black. On the way down, the wind picked up and I thought the right decision was made. When we reached Rexburg around 9:00 P.M. I knew the right decision was made. Heading for Tyler would have added at least another three hours to the day. Getting home at 12:00 A.M. totally spent would would not have been a wise choice.

GPS Track 

Gloved Peak and Shrill Peak taken on the way down

I have collected a lot of images of Tyler Peak from the surrounding mountains. The following links provide some visual data about Tyler Peak from the south and north:

Mount Hoopes Climb

Gloved Peak to Shrill Peak Climb

Great Western Attempt

For more information about climbs, visit:

Idaho: A Climbing Guide

Idaho Climbing

Trip Report: Great Western Peak 10,388, Lemhi Range, Idaho

Followed this goat trail until cliffs forced me off this ridge to Great Western Peak, 10,388

• November 14, 2015
• Team: Solo
• Summit Attempted: 
• Great Western Peak ,10,388, Lemhi Range
• Route: West Ridge
• YDS: Class 2 up to 9,950'
• Total Elevation Gain 3,953'
• Total Miles: 10.5

Yesterday, went up Camp Creek trying to reach the  Lemhi crest. Camp Creek is one rough approach. Eight inches of powder in the canon over large rocks, log jams, and rock slides made the going slow and tedious. Got lost in the forest and decided to make the ridge to 10,358. That was a mistake. Crampons made the ascent manageable, but the increasing number of cliffs made route finding difficult. Dropping down the south slopes to bypass cliffs was exhausting. One minute I was in 20 inches of powder, the next, I was either catching a spike on a shallow rock or sliding down a lightly covered exposed slab. Finally, I was completely cut off by cliffs at my elevation. I turned around and tried to find a route to the canyon floor below. I cliffed out several times and had to regain elevation each time to continue back tracking. Should have stayed in the canyon on the approach as per my initial plan.  Finally made it down and decided the mountain would still be there in the spring. I made no summit but did get good looks at the incredible cliffy area and some reference photos for another attempt. Also, got a good workout!

Lemhi Range

Ridge between Daisy Black Peak, 10,401 and Tyler Peak

Daisy Black Peak 10,401

The above photo is of the northern slope of Camp Creek. The many towers dotting the slope are quite impressive.

Looking back at the ridge I ascended, it is easy to see the gnarly cliff strewn upper section of Great Western Peak. Hindsight is 20/20.

GPS Trac

For more trip reports, visit http://idahoclimbing.weebly.com