Monday, April 06, 2015

Reconnoitering Peaks 10,296, 10,561, and the North and East Face of Scott Peak, Beaverhead Range, Idaho


Friday, April 3-4, 2015

Upper Webber Lakes
Peak 10,561...Northeast of Scott Peak
Thursday, April 2nd was cold, windy, and grey. I considered venturing out the next morning with Ben to visit the north side of Scott Peak via Webber Creek. Given the bleak weather Thursday evening, I decided to sleep in and enjoy a leisurely day at home.

Awoke around 10:00 and looked outside. Friday morning was much improved. Made a quick decision to go. Ben and I threw our packs together and hit the road. We arrived at Webber Creek Campground around 2:00 P.M. and began hiking.

The hike is easy to moderate as you follow a trail along Webber Creek into the mountains. Several times during the hike, I thought it was a perfect place for a family outing to enjoy some backcountry. Heavily forested slopes give way to the grassy banks of the creek. Dogwoods and other thickets line the stream.

Beaver Dam, Webber Creek
Scott Peak in the Distance
Ben and I hiked for about five hours trying to get to the box canyon leading to the upper lakes before dusk. We stopped for dinner, chicken and rice, and took several snap shots of the mountains along the way. Thought these images may provide reference material for climbers wanting to scale Webber or Scott Peak from the east. The couloirs on the east face look doable for a late winter/early spring climb.

Scott Peak From Webber Creek
We encountered snow and ice along the trail several hours into the hike and eventually traveled across large patches of snow. When we lost the trail under the snow, we found bobcat tracks in the snow leading directly to the next section of trail. Over and over again the tracks led to the path. this little guy knew the trail well. We arrived at the second lake around 7:00 P.M. In some places the snow was still 3 to 4 feet deep in the upper canyon. We were fortunate to cross the surface without post holing. The distance hiked was about 6.2 miles and the elevation gain was around 2000 ft. I made some photos and then we set up the tent in an open grassy patch next to the second lake at about 9,100 feet.

Hike From Campground to Upper Lakes
You know you are approaching the entrance to the box canyon when Peak 10,296 comes into view. The trail skirts this mountain on the east and then turns west.

Peak 10,296, Beaverhead Range, Idaho
Northwest Face of Peak 10,296

Ben
Frozen Lake at the Base of Peak 10,561
The Ridge from Peak 10,561 to Scott Peak

Walking Across the Lake
Near the Second Lake
North Face Scott Peak
Ben
Campsite at Second Lake
The North Face of Scott Peak
The temperature dropped to the lower twenties during the night. Our gear was at its limit. We never got cold but were never toasty. We joked we were lukewarm most of the night.

In the morning we ate some yogurt and chocolate cake; Mom was far away. Later, we packed up and hiked to the end of the canyon before turning northeast and heading out. Once at the mouth of the canyon, we turned northwest and headed up a steep slope into another small box canyon just to see what was there. I was a glutton for punishment. About a half mile into the climb, I started to post hole past my knees. Post holing is never fun and with a forty pound pack (I carried a bunch of extra stuff considering this to be a good conditioning hike) it is pure agony. After about 10 steps it was a no brainer to turn around and head down.

Looking Towards the End of the Canyon
Scott Peak on Left

Leaving the Upper Lakes
Scott Peak on Left
How to Get There:
To get to the campground trail head, drive to Dubois on I-15 and turn west onto highway 22. Follow 22 looking for Medicine Lodge Rd. to the north. Turn right on Medicine Lodge Road and follow it northwest towards the Montana border. This drive offers beautiful views of seldom seen landscapes and is well worth the trip. Watch for Webber Creek Rd on the left. If you see Medicine Lodge Ranch with its massive log fences, you've gone too far. Turn around and retrace a half mile or so until you can turn east on Webber Creek Rd. Follow this road to the campground trail head. All access roads are very good. A passenger car will have no problem getting you to this adventure.

For more trip reports of other mountains visit idahoclimbing.weebly.com



Monday, March 30, 2015

Climbing Mount McCaleb, and Little Mac Trip Report, Lost River Range, Idaho

Drove to Mackay after work on Friday. The drive is about two hours from Rexburg. I hoped to photograph both McCaleb and Little Mac before nightfall. The light was not the best nor the worst.

Mount McCaleb is the distinctive Mountain towering over the small town of Mackay. It sports a gnarly looking crown which makes it one of the most recognizable summits in the Lost River Range.

Here are a some Friday evening images made of McCaleb and some nearby peaks.

Little Mac, 11,071, Mount McCaleb, 11,682, Little Mac, and USGS Peak, 11,982 
Invisible Mountain, 11,330 center
Mount McCaleb and Desert 
Peak 10,552 south of McCaleb
Peak 10,552 south of McCaleb
Lost River Mountain in Distance With False Summit
Last Light on McCaleb's Crown
I think the most direct route to the base of the Mount McCaleb is neither the upper or lower Cedar Creeks roads; I have been on both. The best way is to turn right on Main Street in Mackay. Proceed to the foothill. Instead of curving right, stop at the green gate. The sign on the gate identifies the road leading up to a communications tower but there is no indication of trespassing. As always, make sure the gate is closed behind you.

I parked on the flats near a small hill to make some photos and bed down for the night. If you have a good 4WD, you could knock off eight-tenths of a mile by actually driving to the tree line. See image above. Although, less than a mile hike up a moderate slope is not too bad of an approach!

The evening was very enjoyable. About an hour after the sun went down, I rolled out a pad and a bag in the back of the Forester and left the hatch open to the fresh air. Fell asleep listening to Ed Viesturs book, The Will to Climb and Coyote calls from Lower Cedar Creek.

Awoke a bit after 6:00. Ate a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, got dressed, and was on the trail by 7:00. The hike is pretty straight forward. I debated the line I should take once past the tree line and decided I would go up the ridge to Little Mac, hoping the light would be good on the northern mountains for some photos.

The Pioneers and Mackay Reservoir
Mackay Mountains and Ridge to Little Mac
Near the Top of Little Mac
The Northern Mountains
Lost River Mountain on right, Donaldson, Church, and (I believe) White Cap

This one includes the false summit of Lost River Mountain, far right
The wind picked up on the ridge and I welcomed the leeward side of large rock formations near the top of the mountain. See image above. There were sparse pockets of snow on the leeward side of the ridge but nothing that required any special consideration. Once at the summit, I ate the second half of my peanut butter sandwich drank some Gatorade and began the descent to the pass between Little Mac and McCaleb. The descent was a bit dicey without crampons. I know; I should have thrown them in my pack; I am a slow learner. The snow had not warmed up and was often so solid that I could not kick in a step, I did, however, bring my axe! I prudently traded my poles for the ax and slowly descended using the pick firmly planted in the surface.

USGS Peak Over the Saddle Between Little Mac and McCaleb
The Summit of Little Mac and Ridge Leading to the Col
Loose Snow/Point Release Avalanches off the ridge north of Little Mac.
Ridge Detail
Once on the pass, I enjoyed the views to the east. The snow was firm enough to walk on comfortably with very few post holes. I decide not to follow the ridge to the top. Instead, I opted for a direct route up the northern face of scree and snow.  I had to pull out my axe only one more time on a snow field. Not sure if I saved much time. Climbing up this face, the wind picked up I could see spin drift rising from ridges in the southeast. Slowly the clouds darkened and lowered, always an ominous sign. I was a bit disappointed thinking that by the time I reached the summit the views would be gone. I made the ridge and walked up to the top.

View From Upper Ridge of Mount McCaleb
View From Upper Ridge of Mount McCaleb
Once on top, I ate some cashews and peanut M&Ms. It was about 11:30, and I was in no hurry to descend. I laid down out of the wind and rested for about 10 minutes, hoping the weather would change.  Then, I reluctantly started down. About fifty feet off the ridge, it was like a switch was flipped. the clouds disappeared and the wind died! I quickly ran back to the top for some photos.

USGS Peak 
Summit Ridge to McCaleb
Lost River Mountain (center) False Summit and Ridge to Summit
I left the upper ridge a little after noon. I scree skied to the snow fields and then glissaded down. The snow had softened a bit and was perfect...not hard and icy. When the slope was too shallow to glissade, I was able to take big strides in the softening snow, no post holing, just large cushioned steps! Descending was a pleasure. I was back at my car by 1:45. I left for Arco and grabbed an Atomic Burger and chocolate milkshake at Pickles thinking I could afford the calories. Then headed for home.

Other Resources:

Tom Lopez Website:
Mount McCaleb
Little Mac

For more trip reports of other mountains visit idahoclimbing.weebly.com

Sunday, March 15, 2015

Climbing Diamond Peak, Lemhi Range


2/15/2015

The Riddler on the Left
Seen From the Eastern Ridge of Diamond Peak
This weekend marked my one year anniversary of going up mountains. What began as a photography project, to photograph Idaho mountains, has now evolved. To photograph mountains, I soon learned that you have to get to know them better. Sometimes just getting close to them is not enough. You have to place yourself on them and all around them. What began as merely a photographic pursuit now continues mainly as a hiking/climbing activity. Images made during these excursion are now of secondary importance. In the beginning I would often hike to a specified location and wait for the light to get good, often spending the night. The vast majority of the time, I would be disappointed. No good images were made and I found little satisfaction in the journey, just frustration. Slowly I let go of the imposed notion that I had to get "good shots" when hiking and climbing. I could then pursue hikes and climbs purely for the adventure, free from the expectation of "good shots." I still carry a camera, but it does not dictate when and where I go. If a good image is made during the outing, I count myself lucky. If the light is terrible, I end up with some memorable snapshots. Being active in the mountains is reward enough.

Last year, during this time in March, I climbed Little Sister a lesser mountain just south of Bell Mountain. This was the third mountain I have ever climbed and the first time I climbed since college days in the early 1980s. Little Sister was my inaugural mountain, during this phase in my life. Since that week last year, I have climbed Diamond Peak, Umpleby Peak, Bell Mountain, Gilmore Peak, Saddle Mountain, Nicholson Peak, Table Mountain, Sphinx Mountain,  Mount Borah, Mount Idaho, Leatherman Peak, Mount Church, Donaldson Peak, Mount Breteinbach, and Lost River Mountain. Yesterday, I went up Diamond for the second time with a group of friends. For me it was a one year commemoration of my climbing progress. I must say I was in much better shape coming off the mountain this time than last year.

Layne Hacking, James Allen, James Helfrich, and myself left for Diamond Peak a bit after 5:00 yesterday morning. Layne drove his truck for us. We were darn lucky to have Layne driving. Without Layne, our one day climb would have proven impossible. He was able to get us to the most common trailhead, the same place I was able to get my Subaru to last year in perfect conditions. We entertained going up the southern ridge for an instant and then opted for the straightforward eastern ridge. Like most Idaho mountain, the beginning is a steep scree slog. Once the ridge is achieved, we followed it upwards and north to the large east ridge leading to the summit. This is where things got fun.

The Curve Leading to the Eastern Ridge and the Summit of Diamond Peak
Layne Beginning the East Ridge
The Imposing Steps Behind
The east ridge is made of series of large steps that must be climbed on the way to the summit. Many of the climbs are near vertical. I am not sure but I think there are at least three major steps to be climbed on the way up and several lesser ones. This ridge involves some route finding and just a bit of confidence with class 3 climbing.
Layne Beginning the Steep Ascent of a Large Step 
Typical Climbing Surface

Looking South
Saddle Mountain in Far Distance
Looking North
Bell Mountain in the Distance
Looking Down

In the Cliffs of the East Ridge

The Last Big Step Has Been Climbed
The Summit is Next
Diamond Peak Summit View 1

Diamond Peak Summit View 2
The Riddler and Southern Mountains

Looking Northeast
The Beaverheads in the Distance
James H. Down Climbing a Steep Section
One More View
James A. Preparing for a Down Climb
We made it off the ridge and into the steep scree. Once off the scree we followed a ridge leading to the top a small hill with forested trees on the northeast side. On top was a great looking cairn with nearby prayer flags fluttering in the breeze. It was a cool way to end the hike before we plowed down through the trees in thigh deep snow.

Other Resources:

Tom Lopez Website:
Diamond Peak

Ramblings

For more trip reports of other mountains visit idahoclimbing.weebly.com